Dublin, of course, is full of great pubs—though with so many tourist-magnet bars, finding a more authentic hangout can be tricky. To drink with the Dubliners, explore the side lanes off Grafton Street’s pedestrian shopping strip on a leisurely afternoon midweek or on Saturdays or Sundays (but avoid Friday nights, when pubs are overrun with the after-work crowd). Or follow our lead to these beloved drinking dens, starting with Kehoe’s, just a few short blocks from the Conrad Dublin on South Anne Street, is a wood-paneled bar where regulars sit and discuss the results of the latest Gaelic football game (the Dublin team are regular champions of the All-Ireland Title. Seek out a table in the cute little snug at the front and order your drinks through a hatch (a small opening in the glass screen at the bar originally created to keep female patrons separate from rowdy male revelers at the counter). Next, head three blocks east to Grogan’s, a well-worn place frequented by a literary crowd (writer Flann O’Brien and poet Patrick Kavanagh were regulars), where works by Dublin artists adorn the walls and drinkers spill onto the street on sunny days. For something a bit more polished, finish up at the Long Hall, a short stroll away through George’s Street Arcade. This Victorian pub has a gleaming interior—Art Nouveau glass, a grand old wooden clock—and both the customers and staff love to engage out-of-towners in friendly banter. Have a snifter of whatever the barman has chosen as the whiskey of the month—it could be Greenspot or one of the many fine single pot still
whiskies from the Midleton Distillery.
Kehoe’s is on Anne Street South, on the corner where it meets Duke Lane. The red and white sign outside says “John Kehoe’s”. Grogan’s is on William Street South, right across from where it meets Coppinger Row. The Long Hall is a burgundy and white striped pub, on South Great George’s Street near to Dublin Castle.
KEHOE’S: 9 S. Anne St.; +353-(0)1-677-8312; louisfitzgerald.com
GROGAN’S: 15 William St. S; +353-(0)1-677-9320; groganspub.ie
THE LONG HALL: 51 S. Great George’s St.; +353-(0)1-475-1590